Thursday, April 17, 2014
Wednesday, April 09, 2014
More Snap Chat from Kathmandu
~Sandy Garson "Wordsmithing to attest how the Dharma saved me from myself!"
http://www.sandygarson.com
http://yoursinthedharma.blogspot.com/
Technorati Tags: Yours In The Dharma, Sandy Garson, Dharma, Buddhist, Buddhism, Spirituality, Religion This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 2.5 License.
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Friday, April 04, 2014
Snapshots of Kathmandu
Those tall, gangly boys don't take the money. In unison, they push the two unusually clean and crisp 500 rupee notes back at me. "Keep it for yourself," one says. "You've already given us presents. (long sleeve cotton tees for both, a bivouac backpack for one and a Swatch for the other.) And you came all the way here from America, which must have been expensive. We know you don't have much, so you need to keep the money." Two 14-year-olds from high Himalayan mud villages, saved by a charity boarding school, teenagers dependent on the kindness of strangers for everything, push back the $5.00 I am trying to give each of them for a little fun during the upcoming three-week school vacation. And they are very certain, very pleased. Only later do I realize it is because they at last found something they could give to me.
Father Greg is a sharp-eyed American Jesuit who's lived in Kathmandu long enough to be reasonably fluent in Nepali. He also speaks Sanskrit and Latin. Sanskrit study brought him years ago and like almost everybody else exposed to ordinary Nepali people, he got infected with their gentleness, generosity and good humor, so he stayed. Now at the city's main university he teaches Buddhism of all things: a Jesuit priest teaching Buddhism to people who've had it in their blood for over 2,000 years. (Lumbini, where Shakyamuni Buddha was born, is in Nepal.) He also supervises and teaches basic Buddhist thought to Americans in a six-month study abroad program sponsored by his alma mater, Boston College. When I meet him in his spacious apartment in the Tibetan part of town, he is hosting a white haired Harvard professor invited to be keynote speaker at his conference on comparative religion: comparing if they all meet at a common point. (I tell him I do this with food cultures.) Father Greg's approach to Dharma remains academic; after all, he's a Jesuit, a sect legendary for its intellectual fervor and debating prowess. That telltale crisp white collar edged in shiny black poked shyly out of his crewneck sweater. I ask if he feels conflict as an American Catholic living in Nepal to teach Asian religion to Asians and Americans. 'Not at all," he replies without hesitation. "You forget Jesuits have always been at the forefront of ethnography and anthropology. Jesuits were traveling around the planet, mingling in and reporting on other cultures 1,000 years ago. I am nothing new at all."
Maya sits cross-legged on the floor because her honored guest is on the bed/sofa. She is wearing a robin's egg blue cardigan, gold necklace and beatific radiance. She is from one of the high, remote sacred valleys--her family house, others from there tell me, is the first inn of sorts anybody trying to reach it will come upon, but she lives now in this narrow, second floor room, stuffed with two beds, an armoire, shelving and desk. A Tibetan rug covers the remainder of the dark wooden floor, and a propane burner, electric kettle and plastic blue water cistern on the small table just inside the door is her kitchen. As we wait for tea from the cafe below, her startlingly large two-year-old waddles over, hops up and reaches for my blonde hair. Maya springs up, but I signal it's okay. "Yellow hair isn't something she's seen before. She's not hurting me." When my milk tea comes, I sip it very very slowly to not encourage continual refills. I've already refused cake, candy and dinner, so she keeps trying to find something to give as a thank you. I gave a pile of baby clothes and shoes because an important monk I've known for years gave me a special gift and that toddler is his child, the reason he's no longer running the whole international monastery operation but working seven days a week in the kitchen of a sushi restaurant run by a Bhutanese ex monk in Germany. "It's hard," he says on the phone when we talk. He went from being a revered and battened monk to an uneducated, unskilled immigrant. What little he earns, he spends mostly on what I see. His preternatural two-year-old explores me all over with a gentle but stubborn fascination before placing herself contentedly in my lap.
I finished immigration, grabbed my suitcases, wheeled past customs, stepped into the sunlight of noonday Kathmandu and there behind the police barrier was Rembo holding out a khata. His clean round face flashed that wide pearly smile that magnetized me to his cab ten years ago. The Maoist insurgency was so deadly then, nobody dared come to Kathmandu-- the US government was among those issuing extreme peril advisories. When I stepped through the gate onto the normally screeching, choking main street, its sidewalks were eerily deserted, so the dozens of taxi drivers desperate for a fare pulled and shouted at me, their great white hope. Trying to escape what felt like extreme peril, I saw ahead of me a cleanly dressed and pressed squarish man leaning against a white cab that was gleaming to match his smile. "You," I said, pointing to the cab.. "Okay, ma'am," he replied and graciously opened the back door.
"You want me to wait?" he asked when i got out. "Hold your packages?"
I told him I couldn't afford that level of service.
"No matter, ma'am. I just want the work and right now there isn't any so I'll just wait for you, no charge." That's how Rembahadur Lama--"call me Rambo"-- became my driver, then other people's private taxi: expats and tourists who kept passing his mobile phone number along after I released it as highly recommended. I have since sometimes arrived to find out he's so pre-booked by tourists, he has no time for me. "My wife wants to thank you," he always says when he can come to the airport. "It's because of you, my business is not bad so I can send my son to school." On one of those early rides, he'd explained he was a Tamang who'd left his village--near our great monastery-- and his family farm in order to earn enough money to send his son to school so he would have a modern, easier life. "I can't afford a really good one, but at least he's in an English learning school."
Of course this time, after the khata presentation, I asked if his son was still in school. "Yes ma'am. He's doing well. He's learning about computers." But like everything else in this failed state, the cost had climbed considerably. It was a struggle, especially because he was still sending money back to his father and brother in the village where there was no way to earn an income. "But it's all right," he insisted. "I can work hard." And I saw that. In clothes always pressed and a cab always sparkling clean, he was out hunting fares every minute he wasn't driving me, seven days a week, 6:30 AM until 8 or 9 PM. (I sometimes saw him sleeping in the cab while waiting for me.) And now came the fuel price hike with the inevitable protest that cost him a day's work.
I was of course expecting Rembo to drive me to the airport when I left. He'd cleared the space for me. But in the end, one of the monks insisted on chauffeuring me in a monastery SUV, so I had to call him off. "That's okay, ma'am," he said. "But I'll still come to say goodbye." When he did, I handed him an envelope "for your boy to go to school." I might say it was an extra tip for excellent service. You could say it was just another form of NGO charity funding. Or I could say it was what I'd already set aside: the going amount for a taxi ride to the airport with a generous tip attached because I knew Rembo needed that $20 more than me.
My mobile phone rang in the middle of the night in my transit hotel room inside Singapore airport. "Ma'am, you all right? Everything ok?"
"Yes Rembo, I got safely as far as Singapore. One more day to home."
And two days later my mobile phone rang in my apartment. "Ma'am, you got home okay? Just to know you okay and when you come back."
~Sandy Garson "Wordsmithing to attest how the Dharma saved me from myself!"
http://www.sandygarson.com
http://yoursinthedharma.blogspot.com/
Technorati Tags: Yours In The Dharma, Sandy Garson, Dharma, Buddhist, Buddhism, Spirituality, Religion This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 2.5 License.
Click here to request Sandy Garson for reprint permission.
Thursday, April 03, 2014
Notes From Nepal: Part 1
~Sandy Garson "Wordsmithing to attest how the Dharma saved me from myself!"
http://www.sandygarson.com
http://yoursinthedharma.blogspot.com/
Technorati Tags: Yours In The Dharma, Sandy Garson, Dharma, Buddhist, Buddhism, Spirituality, Religion This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 2.5 License.
Click here to request Sandy Garson for reprint permission.